Canal Saint Martin, neighborhood Paris

I have been stalking the Canal St. Martin neighborhood for more than a decade now.  The first time I visited I knew that it is where I would choose to live if moving to Paris.  It was a perfect place to wander, we found a coffee shop, a book store and a large Antoine and Lili store but it was not full of shopping, galleries or other commerce that often bring you to visit a neighborhood– it just appealed as an excellent place to live.  On subsequent visits we saw new stores popping up, more cafes and restaurants...today it is both a great place to live and a destination.

When deciding where to stay on our most recent trip I learned that a new small hotel had recently opened right on the canal, I did not hesitate, I made a reservation at Le Citizen.  In addition to the hotel being located in what I consider the perfect spot there were many other advantages it was– small, comfortable, you get an ipad lent to you upon check in, the staff and owner are knowledgeable and helpful, the construction and practices are ecologically aware...in short it was hard to leave and we will stay there on our next trip.

Staying on the canal gave us a chance to explore the neighborhood, on the street (rue de Lancry) between Jacques Bonsergent (our metro stop) and the hotel there is a paper shop, a fabulous flower store, a variety of small specialty food shops– Italian, Lebanese, Greek, fruit...a late night falafel joint that proved invaluable for an after ballet snack one night, intriguing clothing and vintage stores and a fabulous design bookstore.  There are also several spots that beg you to stop for a drink or a glass of wine including Le Verre Vole and Hotel du Nord.

The blocks surrounding Le Citizen were full of food shops, clothing stores, galleries, flower shops, cafes... I am anxious to explore each one on future visits.  We did find two new favorites: a bakery, Du Pain et Des Idees and La Tete Dans Les Olives.

Since "discovering" Du Pain et Des Idees I learned that the excellent bread is not exactly a secret...Alain Ducasse serves bread from this bakery at his Paris 3 star restaurant, Plaza Athenee.  The Pain des Amis is one of the best breads I have ever tasted– slightly fermented, nutty, whole wheat and woodsy.  We also tried a stuffed bread that was kind of like a French version of an empanada filled with olives and thyme– memorable.  I have no doubt that everything from this bakery is worth trying.

La Tete Dans Les Olives is about a 10 minute walk from Le Citizen hotel.  The tiny store is packed with products from Sicily.  The owner travels to Sicily every year for the olive harvest and processing of the oil and returns back to Paris with a variety of oils that he has made.  He does not own property but rather visits friends olive farms and the names of the oils reflect the owners of the various properties.  The processing procedure is the same for each oil but the tastes vary greatly depending on the variety of olive, soil and other growing conditions.  We tasted several oils and wanted to bring home one of each but settled on two, a very grassy tasting Paolo and a rich and intense oil called Francesco.  We also tasted the most delicious capers, sun-dried tomatoes, fig cookies and a dried persimmons.  This store is worth a detour!  They also do a 5 seat restaurant a few times a week, sadly there was no spaces available but it is on the top of my list for my next visit.

Eating Vegan (vegetalien) in Paris

Every time I go to Paris I forget that it is an oddity to be a vegan there.  There are outstanding ingredients– stellar vegetables, the best bread, availability of a huge variety of foods from all over the world...but the French are committed to their meat, fish, eggs, butter and cheese.  Fancy restaurants with kitchen inventories and large kitchen staffs sometimes are willing to accommodate.  However, smaller bistros with one menu and only a person or two in the kitchen are often unable to prepare a vegan meal.  There are exceptions to this, a few I know of are–  Le Clown Bar we had an excellent plate of seasonal vegetables and lentils, we were unable to get a reservation at La Tete dans les Olives or Le Comptoir (next trip!) but they seemed undaunted by our request and the underground restaurant, Soul Kitchen Supper Club said vegan would not be a problem but they were not open any of the nights we were in Paris this time.

Don't get the wrong idea, we ate well in Paris!!

There are several vegetarian restaurants in Paris, I have not been to many but we did end up eating a lovely meal in between two exhibits at the Pompidou Museum at Le Potager du Marais.  I have heard great things about several others as well.  We had a fabulous lunch made up of several small salads and extraordinary multi grain bread at Bread and Roses near the Jardin de Luxembourg.  There are many cous cous restaurants where it is easy to eat vegan throughout Paris, a favorite is Chez Omar.

Street food is plentiful and much of it is vegetarian, favorites include the Thyms Sandwich at the Bastille Market, Falafel from L As du Fallafel, Japanese choices from a stand called Taeko at Marche des Enfants Rouge (great Moroccan, Middle Eastern and Italian choices too)– and there is always the option of bread and fruit available on nearly every corner.

On our recent trip we also ate at Le Violon D'Ingres where we started with a perfectly dressed salad, followed by a plate of spring vegetables that included fava beans peas and morels.  We ended with a cassis sorbet and fruit.  On an earlier trip we they were happy to prepare a memorable vegan meal for us at L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon.

Our last night we splurged and ate at Arpege a Michelin 3 star restaurant that is unique in that it has an emphasis on vegetables.  They were happy to work with us and forgo dairy as well.

Our meal was made up of lots of tiny courses–

Beet on cracker with chocolate

Potato noodles with herb vinaigrette

Spinach with sesame and bitter orange

Salad with hazelnut butter

Beet and chocolate with balsamic vinegar and spring onion

Yellow beet carpaccio with chervil

Black radish carpaccio with lemongrass

Green radish with caramelized radish and green tea

Baby vegetables with cous cous and cumin

Cassis Pates

Orange and apple with mint and argon oil

Apple and pineapple with olive oil lime sauce and candy

......

Already dreaming of our next visit!

New Chocolate Shop, Un Dimanche A Paris

Here in Paris there is artisan chocolate everywhere you turn.  A few of our many favorites– Josephine Vannier, in the Marais, Jacques Genin, near Republique, Francois Pralus, next to the Pompidou and although not a chocolate store we had the most delicious chocolate sorbet (ingredients chocolate and water) at Bertillion, the Ile St. Louis ice cream maker, yesterday.

A new noteworthy store, Un Dimanche A Paris close to Odeon opened late last year.  The owner is Pierre Cluizel the son of the chocolatier Michel Cluizel (his chocolates are available at Biagio in DC).  He is calling the space a concept store and it includes a chocolate shop, patisserie, bar, restaurant and lounge.  There are also cooking classes a tasting room and  a gorgeous all glass kitchen and another teaching kitchen.  The space is large and luxurious, the chocolate outstanding...

I left the store with a variety of dark chocolates and am bringing home some Paillettes Argentees and Paillettes Dorees, silvery and golden glitters, that I plan to use on baked goods.

sugars, fructose, agave???

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

One of the things I do is develop recipes, write blog posts and articles as well as consult on all things cooking related for Bob Greene's Best Life Diet.  One of the perks of this work is collaborating with Janis Jibrin, a DC based Nutritionist.  Janis is a scientist and when you ask her a nutrition question you do not get a squishy answer you get an explanation which includes details about the food in question and how your body processes that food...if she does not have an answer she turns to the science: scientific journals and leadings experts in the field- and analyzes the latest information.

A question that has been on my mind and that I get asked a couple of times a week is about whether agave nectar is a good substitute for sugar...

This is an excerpt by Janis from Bob Greene's recently released book, The Life You Want, Simon and Schuster December 28, 2010

Basically all calorie-containing sweeteners—white sugar, raw sugar, brown sugar, maple syrup, honey, corn syrup, high-fructose corn syrup, molasses, fruit juice sweetener, dextrose, or maltose—are about the same healthwise. The only exception is plain fructose, which is being used in products like energy drinks and some foods marketed to those with diabetes, because it doesn’t raise blood sugar quickly. Some animal studies, and now a few human studies, suggest that fructose causes a spike in artery-clogging cholesterol and triglycerides, promotes weight gain in the dangerous abdominal area, and increases inflammation, a trigger to a host of diseases. (Agave syrup is 80 percent or more fructose, so in my book, it’s basically fructose.)

......I’d recommend steering clear of all forms of fructose (including the popular “crystalline fructose”) or agave syrup until the safety has been established.

Janis goes on to say that she is following the research and her position may shift...in the meantime I continue to use agave nectar but very sparingly and only if it is the best reacting or tasting sweetener for something I am making.  However, I use it with moderation and never use it if another non fructose sweetener can produce the same results.  So for those of you using agave in the name of a healthful choice take note!

Rhubarb Paired With Banana, Banana Maple Syrup Sandwich with Rhubarb Compote

This week we got rhubarb for the first time this season.  Rhubarb is a favorite here for both desserts and savory dishes.   For sweets I love the paring of rhubarb and banana.  At last nights fun Home Restaurant we ended the meal with–

Banana Maple Syrup Sandwich with Rhubarb Compote and Toasted Walnuts

Banana Cake

8 oz non hydrogenated margarine, such as Earth Balance

3 1/3 cups sugar

inside of 2 vanilla beans

1 cup pureed silken tofu

3 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 cup homemade non dairy yogurt (can substitute with non dairy store bought yogurt or sour cream)

2 cups mashed banana

4 cups all purpose unbleached flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

In a mixer cream together margarine, sugar and vanilla.  Add Tofu.  In a small bowl mix together baking powder, baking soda and sour cream.  Add to sugar mixture and mix until just combined.  Add bananas until just combined and then add flour and salt.  Bake at 350 degrees until cake tests clean on a knife.  I baked mine in small silicon molds.

Frozen Maple Syrup

1 cup young coconut water

1 cup young coconut meat

3 cups coconut milk

1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons coconut butter

1 cup maple syrup

1 teaspoon himalyan salt

Combine all the ingredients in a high speed blender. Chill and freeze in an ice cream maker.  I placed ice cream into the silicone molds I baked the cakes in to have the correct size for sandwiches and held in the freezer until I was ready to assemble the dessert.

Rhubarb Compote

about 10 stalks of rhubarb

inside of 2 vanilla beans

sugar to taste

Lightly peel rhubarb removing most of the stringy outside layer.  Cut rhubarb into 1/2 inch slices and place into a pot, add the vanilla, 1 tablespoon of sugar and 2 tablespoons of water.  Cook over low to medium heat until the rhubarb softens and you have a thick compote.  Taste and add additional sugar gradually until the compote is still very tart but pleasant to taste.  Be sure to add sugar slowly so as not to over sweeten.

Candied Walnuts

1 cup chopped walnuts

2 tablespoons maple syrup

1/2 teaspoon himalyan salt

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.  Place walnuts, maple syrup and salt on a baking tray and stir.  Place in oven and stir every few minutes until the mixture become a deep golden brown.  Remove from the oven and stir every few minutes while the nuts are cooling to prevent them from sticking to the baking tray.

To Assemble

Slice banana cake in half, place molded frozen maple syrup on bottom half of cake, top with a small spoonful of rhubarb, cover with the top of the banana cake, top with additional rhubarb and walnuts, garnish with a drop of maple syrup.

Early Spring Planting

It is early but at the end of last week the soil was not frozen and I saw that rain was on the way–  we took the opportunity to clean up, turn over the annual beds in our garden, amend the soil with rich castings from our worm home and plant!  Now I am anxiously awaiting the first sprouts.

We are lucky that our walled city garden is fairly protected but regardless we chose plantings that would not mind another freeze or two if that happens.

In three large planters we planted magenta spreen, a green new to me last year that is beautiful– bright green with a magenta center and a flavor similar to lamb's quarters.  In the beds we planted snow peas, arugula and red oak leaf lettuce.

We are announcing an open Home Restaurant for April 1st and I am hoping the first baby lettuce of the season will be ready for picking.  In the meantime I will be ordering seeds and plotting the planting schedule for the season.

Gimme Coffee

Morning coffee is a ritual here at 1508. We make our coffee in a press pot carefully pouring it to get crema on top of each cup.  Personal preference is toward deep chocolate and caramel flavors with low acidity and little to no fruit and citrus flavors. Over the years we have had favorites and lately we have been sampling a bunch of small roasters from all over the country, favorites have included- Giant Steps from Blue Bottle, Organic Driftless Dark from Kickapoo, Arabian Mocha Java from Equator, French Roast from Stumptown...

All the above mentioned are fantastic but the hands down favorite right now is Leftist Blend from Gimme Coffee.

Flower in Martha Stewart Weddings, How fun is that?

Very fun to pick up the Spring, 2011 Martha Stewart Weddings at the grocery store yesterday and look for the page with my flowers on it!  The wedding featured in the magazine was actually the first time that I worked with Ritzy Bee, Kate Headley and Simplesong.  Since then we have collaborated often and I look forward to several weddings together on the books for 2011. Below is the cover and page from the magazine, as well as additional images by Kate of the memorable day.

Home Restaurants 2/25 and 2/26

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Photo Kate Headley

Two Home Restaurants this weekend, both celebrating birthdays, both nearly all first time guests.

Grateful for enthusiastic and engaging diners which made for an enjoyable weekend.  Hope to see you all here again soon!

We served–

PASSING

Quail with Sweet Potato and Rosemary

Beet Soup with Nut Cream

Chicken Liver on Corncake with Scarlet Turnip Puree

Beef Tongue with Watermelon Radish and Pickle

Spicy Brussel Sprouts with Ginger

Scrambled Eggs with Sorrel

Bay Leaf Martini

(Domaine de Mirail) Colombard Gascogne 2009

SEATED

Lamb Shoulder with Salad Mache, Tiny Potatoes, Leeks, Baby Carrots and Mustard

(Jean Royer) Vin de Table "Petit Roy" 2008

Noodles with Cauliflower, Spinach, Yellow Footed Chanterelles and Oregon Black Truffles

(Vercesi) Pinot Nero Bianco "Gugiarolo" 2009

Rockfish with Salsify and Girasol Braised in Saffron with Pea Shoots and Celery Root Relish

(Domaine des Roy) Touraine Rouge "Les Linottes" 2008

Caveman Blue Cheese and Walnut Cracker

Soft Gingerbread with Lemon Glaze, Frozen Coconut and Toasted Cashew, Coconut and  Caramelized Ginger

Friday– (Foreau) Vouvray Demi-Sec 2005

Saturday– (Grange Tiphaine) Nouveau Nez, Sparkling Montlouis 2008

Bites: Mini Chocolate Cake, Chocolate Pistachio Oatmeal, Spicy Cinnamon Roll

Take Home: Warm Chocolate Fig Bread

NYC Flower District

I regularly travel to New York and have often wandered through the flower district.  In DC I have great sources that range from local farms, my own back yard, Dutch Auction flowers delivered to my door in under 48 hours, several good local wholesalers that source from all over the world...However we do not have a street to roam where there is one flower source after another for blocks.  I have explored the NYC flower district in the past but never found my go to shop.

Last weekend we were in the lower east side and we went into a favorite shop Earnest Sewn that has a small flower shop in the back, The Flower Girl, that I have admired for years.  As always the flowers were carefully chosen and to my liking.  I inquired which were their favorite wholesalers.  She pointed me in the direction of G Page and a new all rose shop called Harvest.  Monday morning we went visiting.  Truthfully except for some incredible kangaroo paws from Israel everything I saw is available to me in DC but none the less it was great checking out these two shops and seeing flowers I am familiar with in a new space with fresh eyes.

The amazing resources to me are the endless supplies available, vases, crates, mosses, sticks...again I can get my hands on all of this stuff but much of it requires online ordering and then waiting for the mail or fed ex to come.  I would welcome the opportunity to be able to stroll through Jamali Garden or other supply stores when in search of containers and go home with them in tow.

Thanks to The Flower Girl for the heads up on her favorite floral suppliers!

Loving the Chablis

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Photo Kate Headley

Tom is the wine importer we work with who shares our belief that when wine and food are well matched they are both at their best– they should never compete and always complement each other.  Tom, who works exclusively with small European vineyards, looks at each of our menus and makes suggestions for pairings– they are always spot on and even guests who are wine aficionados always enjoy sampling something new.  The last couple of dinners we have served (Vincent Dampt) Chablis AOC 2009 with our second seated course.  Last week we served it with House Made Noodles tossed with Roasted Salsify and Turnip and Sauces of Carrot and Beet.  The previous week we served it with a Bibb Lettuce Salad with Orange, Avocado and a Warm Fennel Parsnip Dressing.   The Chablis was a hit both nights!

Tom usually delivers the wine himself, tastes something we are cooking and shares stories about the wines we are going to be serving.  He told us that when he found this Chablis he stopped buying several others that he was fond of because they no longer made any sense.  The domaine began rather recently, in 2005, after the winemaker graduated from the viticultural school in Beaune.  He utilized a gift from his grandfather of 5 hectares in Chablis which includes small parcels of the two premier crus (Vaillons and Cotes de Lechet) with vines ranging from 21 to over 50 years of age.  He practices "viticulture raisonnable" which means using the least possible application of agricultural chemicals and interventions.  His methods also include heavy pruning, low yields and no oak.

If you get the chance taste some-

My Friends at Hitched Bridal Salon DC

Several years ago a friend of mine asked me to send flowers to a just opened Bridal Salon in Georgetown, Hitched.  This led to me meeting Carin and Julia, seeing their beautiful salon and immediately adoring them.  Similar to many others, I remembered my brief an intimidating wedding dress shopping experience that was so unappealing it resulted in finding someone to make a dress for me.  Just meeting them and entering their space made me realize that wedding dress shopping should and could be joyful.

In the years since our initial meeting it has been fabulous to be able to send just engaged brides to Hitched confident that they will have a great experience while searching for their wedding dress.  I have also enjoyed getting to know Carin and Julia, watching their business and families grow and meeting the fabulous women that work with them.

I was tickled when they asked me few weeks ago if I would be up for being interviewed for their blog– of course!  Below is the post from the From Hello to Hitched Blog with fabulous photos by Kate Headley.

February 17, 2011, Hitched Hearts: Flowers By Sidra

February is flying by, and spring is in the air... and with spring comes beautiful weather and gorgeous flowers! With flowers on the brain, we thought we'd spotlight one of our favorite DC florists, Sidra Forman of Flowers by Sidra. We hope you enjoy her insight and expertise!

-10 Q: Where should I start when looking for floral inspiration?

Sidra Forman: The first question I always ask is for the couple to give me a few words to describe the vision for the wedding. The bride that I met with this morning said "Polka dance party!" No matter what the vision may be, this seems like a good place to start. Other good descriptions I have recently heard are: welcoming, comfortably elegant, old Hollywood, organic, and lush.

-8 Q: Are there good resources online for determining what flowers will be in season for my wedding?

SF: To answer your question I just googled, "seasonal wedding flowers" and found several good sights. I would say that these are helpful starting places, but it's really best to talk with your florist to find out about seasonal local flowers and the florist's specific resources near and far.

-6

Q: How did you get started with floral design?

SF: Growing up, there were often fresh flowers in my house-- we picked them from the garden, foraged for them in the woods and occasionally bought bunches to bring home and arrange. My mother was comfortable arranging flowers and it never seemed intimidating. When I moved away from home, fresh cut flowers were something I often indulged in. However, I started arranging flowers much more often (and in greater quantity) when we opened our restaurant Rupperts in DC. From day one, and for the following 8 years that we were open, in addition to my duties as pastry and sous chef, I became the florist. We always had at least two very large arrangements and several smaller ones and I started to explore and discover sources for flowers, giving me the chance to make a whole lot of flower arrangements. The first several weddings I did flowers for were a result of people coming to eat, seeing the flowers and asking me to do flowers for their weddings.

-5 Q: What are some of your favorite flowers for wedding bouquets?

SF: I think one of the things I like about flowers is that the best ones depend on the season, which keeps it interesting and always new.  Every season something surprises me and that might be what I enjoy the most! In the spring, summer and fall, many flowers come from local growers and my own urban garden. In the winter and for flowers that are not grown around here, I rely heavily on the Dutch auction.  I have a broker in Holland who I order from on Tuesday morning and the flowers are on my doorstep by Thursday morning when I wake up. I also have excellent sources throughout the US and the world. I make an effort to ensure that the flowers I use leave as little negative environmental impact as possible and are raised and processed using fair labor practices.

A few of my favorite things, though? In the spring– sweet peas, peonies, white forsythia, herbs. In the summer– chocolate vine, sunflowers, garden roses, zinnia, cosmos. In the fall– rose hips, dahlias, hydrangeas, salvia. In the winter– Dutch tulips, New York State anemones, French ranunculus, local forced quince.

-9 Q: What are the best ways to cut down on cost when it comes to my flowers?

SF: More flowers in fewer spots. Determine what is important to you-- it is not necessary to put flowers everywhere, but make an impact where you do decide to put them. For example, maybe just put votives on cocktail tables and skip the flowers, but put more of your budget into the centerpieces. I also find that grouping small vases for a single centerpiece uses less flowers than one large centerpiece, while still giving a fairly abundant feeling. Often I also loan empty vases so the bridesmaids bouquets can be reused in various spots during the reception. If a bride has a budget in mind I am always happy to explore ways to make the most of it.

-3 Q: How should I prepare for the initial meeting with a potential florist?

SF: I always encourage brides to bring any photos of flower arrangements and other inspiration that they do or do not like. But if they don't have photos, we can usually figure it out during the first meeting. After looking at photos together of my previous work, it is always easy to determine likes and dislikes and come up with a vision. This is the fun part! My favorite part about doing wedding flowers is the collaboration-- determining a plan while taking into account seasonal availability and feasibility. I also like to see images of the bride's gown and bridesmaid dresses if they have been chosen, as well as any other visual elements that have already been determined-- because in my mind these tell more about the wedding that words can.

-4 Thanks so much to Sidra for all these helpful hints on an often-overlooked wedding topic! Any other vendors you'd like to see us feature on our blog? Shoot us an email to blog@hitchedsalon.com.

[All photos by the oh-so-talented Kate Headley, and all flowers pictured were designed byFlowers by Sidra]

Mast Brothers Chocolate, Brooklyn

Yesterday we went on a tour of Mast Brothers Chocolate in Brooklyn.  The tour walks you through the meticulous yet simple process used to make superior artisinal chocolate.  The brothers began making chocolate in their apartment several years ago and are now making a few thousand extremely high quality bars weekly in their congenial, hands on factory.  They purchase fermented beans and from that make chocolate adding only sugar...there is no added flavoring, cocoa butter, preservatives or anything else that is found in many chocolates. We left after much sampling with lots of chocolate bars and we are going to begin ordering large blocks to use in baking and ice cream making for Home Restaurants and other projects here at 1508.