Where are the grapes with seeds?

I am frustrated with the difficulty of finding grapes with seeds. For a few weeks in September we were able to find them at the farmers market. Whole Foods has not carried them for several seasons, the Giant near my house always had them last year but they are not available there this year either...

I understand that the crunchy, sweet, seedless varieties available today were developed to appeal to consumers. I prefer grapes with seeds for a few reasons. In nearly all cases seeded grapes have more intense flavor, not necessarily sweeter but more complex which I prefer. I eat nearly all grape seeds, ocassionaly very large or bitter ones I discard, and I enjoy the texture that they add. It also appears from everything that I have read that many of the health properties of grapes actually come from the seeds themselves. They are believed to be extremely high in antioxidants and to strengthen the human immune system. It seems absurd that buying grape seed extract is popular but buying grapes with seeds is nearly impossible. This is not the case in many other countries around the world where grapes with seeds remain popular.

Hopefully the absence of the of seeded grapes will pass...I have noticed in the last couple of years that watermelons with seeds are more available than they have been in a decade. I am a fan of the seedless watermelon but my daughter Martin-Lane swears that the texture and flavor of a good seeded watermelon is better than that of a good seedless watermelon. This summer we enjoyed quite a few watermelons with seeds.

Tonight at 1508


Thank you to a great group of enthusiastic eaters this evening who came out on a cold and rainy night. This is what we served.

Passing
Scrambled Whitmore Farm Egg with Sorrel
Diver Seared Sea Scallops on Corn Cake with Eggplant
Roasted Fingerling Sweet Potato with Winter Squash and Pumpkin Seed Puree
Roasted Broccoli
Green Tomato Soup

Sorrel Martini (Labbe) Abynnes Savoie 2007

Seated
Eco Friendly Foods Poussin Noodle Soup with Turnips and Chestnuts
(La Chapiniere) Touraine Gamay 2007

Wild Puff Ball, Hen of the Woods and Oyster Mushrooms with Green Beans and Cauliflower
(Gerard Boulay) Sancerre AOC 2007
Eco Friendly Foods Beef Strip Loin with Beets, Beet Greens, Potatoes and Horseradish
(Chateau Les Valentines) Cotes du Provence Rouge “Le Punition”

Farmers Cheese with Apple on Walnut Cracker

Carrot Sorbet with Coconut Macaroon
(Chancelle/Bourdin) Cremant de Saumur NV

Chocolate Torte with Frozen Fig and Ginger
(Roc des Anges) VDP “A” Passerille 2004

Dessert Bites
Candied Pumpkin Seeds
Salty Rosemary Oatmeal Cookies
Molasses Cookies

Farmers Cheese


At Rupperts we served Farmers Cheese with warm bread before everyone started their meal. So, everyday we made the cheese. We chose this as a condiment to serve with our bread because it was delicious, light and paired well with all foods. Sometimes we would make it with raw goats milk if a farmer brought it to us, often with it with dairy from Lewes Farm. Before yesterday I had not made farmers cheese in years and even though I used to make it everyday I must confess to not remembering the exact proportions. Luckily the cheese if forgiving and there are many possible variations that will result in excellent cheese.

The batch we made yesterday came out great and we are going to mix in some herbs and serve it on a walnut cracker with a slice of honeycrisp apple after our last savory course and before our first sweet course at tomorrows Home Restaurant.

Farmers Cheese

You can substitute this for store bought ricotta in any recipe. For the batch we made yesterday we used Trickling Springs Dairy that we bought from Timor Bodega.

2 cups buttermilk
1/2 gallon milk
salt to taste
1/4 cup white vinegar

Place all ingredients in a pot and gently heat. The curd will separate to the top. Use a ladel to gently remove the curd from the liquid. Put curd in a strainer to separate the solid from the liquid. Once all of the solid is separated adjust salt and chill.

on an open fire


Last weekend there was lots of cooking over an open fire...

We went camping in Harper's Ferry last Sunday. When we go camping it is this strange mix of doing things we don't usually do and spending time outdoors. What that means is that we refrain from the comforts and the electronics of home. This also means that we bring food to cook over an open fire: Not Dogs and Vegan Marshmallows...things we don't usually eat and have nothing to do with nature! The fun part is putting things on a stick and cooking them on/in an open fire. That is to say walking the fine line between catching things on fire and cooking.

I have to admit we have never cooked on a rotisserie before. That is before last Saturday, we were preparing for a party and needed to cook a few young chickens for a salad bite that we were passing later in the day. With the confidence of not having to serve these birds straight from the fire we decided to tryout the rotisserie.

We discovered the trick was to regulate the fire as well as the distance between the fire and the chickens while all the time rotating the rotisserie. This sounds like a lot but is totally worth it! After about an hour of cooking, the chickens slowly became crisp and juicy. However the best part about cooking on the rotisserie was the lightly smokey taste–just enough not too much...

We are roasting a few birds on the rotisserie for this Saturdays Home Restaurant to serve with noodles in a chestnut broth.

food=x

Nothing is more daunting than someone standing in front of you, asking you to create a menu. The question 'What kind of food do you cook?' 'What's your specialty?' falls along those same lines. Maybe my reticence to these requests is one of language–How do you say in so many words that there are multiple variables, that begin with immediate logistics and move all the way out to a position on the earth and its relation to the sun at the time the dinner will be served OR My food=x, in that x is the variable in a reciprocal determination of the various produce, animals and dairy that local farmers are producing... but how about we start with 'Do you have any have any food restrictions?'

The answer is of course:
1. fresh–everything comes straight from the farm
2. seasonal–the quality of food is better in season AND human tastes are more receptive to seasonal foods (that is to say food tastes better in season)
3. local–food for the most part tastes better if it does not travel far

I am sure we could find exceptions to these demands (and sometimes are forced to)–But why intentionally would we! We have the freedom to cook what ever menu we want... and with this freedom we acknowledge the parameters that empower any creative process. Paradoxically, limitations are our freedoms...

Creativity for us is not the making of something from nothing but the awareness of an arrangement and the ability to discern and use productive forces while encouraging life and life processes. That is to say within an arrangement there are parts, individuals, groups, species, societies, eco-system all working on each other in no hierarchical fashion, Chefs (humans) are not outside of these networks. Reciprocal determination will almost always seem like chance, however 'chefs in an eco-system' understand the play of limitation and potential in the simple assembling and interpreting of sustenance.

The request for a menu can only be fulfilled by more questions. What's the occasion? Do you know of any allergies? What time of year is the event?... The question, "What's for dinner?" for us amounts to a radically material question: What's Fresh, Seasonal and Local...

Home Restaurant Dates


Wanted to let you know about our last available October date and the
just announced November dates of our Home Restaurant¬–
Saturday October 17, Friday November 13 and Saturday November 28.

We rely heavily on farmers, a wine importer and other purveyors that
we have worked with for years to source ingredients. This time of
year we supplement our supplies with food from our garden. We are
committed to using best food practices.

Every week new fall produce is showing up in our own garden and from
our favorite farmers this week we saw the first: Chestnuts,
Sunchokes, Parsnips, Asian Pears, Baby Kale, Brussel Sprouts…
We will be getting Eggs and Lamb from Whitmore Farms, Poussin and Beef from Eco Friendly Foods, Sustainable Seafood from Prime Seafood…

We start with passing food and cocktails, in the garden weather
permitting, and then move to the dinner table for several courses
with wines picked for each.

Reservations and to inquire about the Requested Donation: sidraforman@gmail.com
Please share this email with any potentially interested diners. You
can also choose a night of your own (other than the ones mentioned
above) if you have a group of 10 or more.

Please advise if you have any food restrictions, vegetarians are more
than welcome!

Check out this post from out blog about a recent Home Restaurant,
http://www.sidrapractice.com/2009/09/september-eleventh.html

Sidra,
sidrapractice.com
sidraforman.com

chaos


This is what my kitchen looked like a few days ago... John snapped this from the back stairs... A Chaos theorist who owns a gallery here in DC (and ate with us a couple weeks ago), told us that Chaos theory claims a temporal frame of predictability and Complexity theory is more spacial than temporal... I operate in mostly the same space, however I find it difficult to predict what will happen at any time. I am not sure if this makes me complexly chaotic or chaotically complex... click on the photo to see captions...

Raw Milk in Cheese


When we had Rupperts we would make regular trips to France to check out markets, eat and visit wineries...On our return we would always sneak in as much young raw milk cheese as I could carry in a carry-on bag. Prior to 2001 airport security was less stringent and this was never a problem. Towards the end of our stay in France, whether in Paris or elsewhere we would visit a great cheese shop and collect cheeses that were not sold in the US because of rules about not selling unpasteurized (cheeses made from raw milk) cheeses that have been aged for less than 60 days.

Cheeses made with raw milk have a more complex flavor than cheeses made with pasteurized milk. The argument against raw milk cheeses is that there is harmful bacteria present in the cheese that could be harmful to consume. Over the years there have been a few cases and it is widely acknowledged that pregnant women should avoid eating raw milk cheeses. On the other hand the French have been eating non aged raw milk cheeses for about two thousand years. However, small artisan cheese makers that are still producing farmhouse (where milk is from the farm where cheese is produced and no character is lost in the transportation of the milk) unpasteurized cheeses are dwindling for all sorts of reasons but in many cases economics.

Frances, my librarian, gave me a book called Au Revoir To All That, by Michael Steinberger. Last night I learned that contemporary raw milk has less bacteria than raw milk used to have which could actually make it more dangerous:

"He (Morelin who works for a large French cheese maker) told me that the nature of milk had changed.. Twenty years ago, raw milk typically had 200,000 to 300,00 bacteria per gram. Now, thanks to the increased hygiene standards mandated by the European Union, the milk had just 10,000 bacteria per gram...At this point I confessed to some confusion. If there now were so many fewer bacteria in the milk, didn't it this mean the milk was safer...He explained that when there had been many more bacteria in the milk, all those pathogens had had to fight for space, and it had created a stable environment. With fewer germs, there was less competition and more space for the bacteria to develop. 'It's a paradox of food safety,' he said. 'With fewer germs, the danger may be worse.'"

I did not find this surprising in the world today of hand sanitizers and fear of bacteria. I recently heard about a case where a child actually got alcohol poisoning from licking the hand sanitizer off of his hands!

We find friendly bacteria in the kombucha we brew, small production wine, which relies on bacteria to develop, raw milk which is only available through joining buying clubs and when we travel small raw farmhouse cheeses.

Ultimately the search for solutions will always lead to more problems until we realize that the way we view problems and their solutions are the problem itself. That is to say that there is no difference between a solution and its problem. A solution is always contained in a problem and in order to move beyond a problem without exasperating situations we must acknowledge on some level uncertainty–the fine line between nature and society, science and tradition and that healthy eating can not be divorced from 'good' eating...

Our love of technology and state of the art has to be balanced with immediate situations, that inherently lie outside of universal perspectives...

Jacqulyn Maisonneuve

Jacqulyn Maisonneuve is at the Corcoran School of Art working on her senior thesis in Photo Journalism. We asked her to share words about her project:

For Sidra Forman and John Cochran and their daughter, Martin-Lane, deciding what’s for dinner goes beyond the refrigerator. The foods they eat and their practice encompass a way of life. It’s not only about eating healthy food, but also knowing where food comes from and trying to live more sustainably.

After running Rupperts Restaurant for eight years Sidra and John decided it was time to have their own restaurant in their home in Washington, D.C. Several times a month, they open their home to friends and clients for dinners. What makes Sidra & John’s restaurant unique is the care that goes into each and every meal. The menu is prepared weeks in advance with many of the ingredients found just outside their door.

Sidra and John’s commitment to healthy living extends beyond their family and business and into the community. Though not fearful about our food system and it’s current state, they understand the problems and are working toward solutions. They are passionate about reaching out to others, especially children, through local schools, neighborhood gardens and community composting centers. They share their knowledge of where food comes from and the importance of nutrition. They hope to offer people alternative ways to think of production and consumption in our industrialized food system. They are living on their own terms without dropping out of society. This is what is radical about them.















Thursday Night at HOME


We had a great group of old and new friends join us this evening for dinner. It is a fun time of year to cook since both late summer and fall ingredients are available. We are looking forward to our upcoming dates. We have reservations available for next Saturday October 17 and are excited to announce Friday November 13 and Saturday November 28 as our open dates for next month.

Tonights menu:
Passing
Green Tomato Soup with Walnut Oil and Sage

Whitmore Farm Egg Salad with Chives

Seared Scallop on Cucumber with Pickled Cucumber

Mashed Potatoes with Basil

Apple Sauce with Rosemary

Derricks Lemongrass Martini
(Labbe) Abymes Savoie 2007

Seated
Whitmore Farms Lamb Chop and Sweetbread with Turnips and Turnip Greens
(Chancelle/Bourdin) Saumur Champigny Rouge 2007

Cauliflower and Wax Beans with Wild Oyster Mushroom, Woodear, Shiitake, Royal Trumpet and Hen of the Woods Mushroom
Chateau Soucherie, Anjou 2008

Poussin with Broccoli, Black Barley Squash Gratin and a Ginger Garlic and Saffron Sauce

(Geoffrenet-Morval) Chateaumeillant Rouge 'Extra Version' 2007 (Pinot/Gamay)

Cheese
Franche Compte with Walnut Cracker

Carrot Sorbet with White Chocolate Brownie
Paillard Bouzy Champagne
Cornmeal Pancake weth Apples, Pears, Raspberries, Frozen Argmanac and Roasted Pumpkin Seeds

Cookie Bites:
Mini Chcolate Cakes
Coconut Macaroons
Quionoa Cookies with Golden Raisin

Breakfast For Inspired Teaching


This morning we had a Home Breakfast for the Center for Inspired Teaching. Empowering students through inspiring teachers, principals and the entire school faculty the CIT takes a very interesting approach. Teachers are underpaid and over worked. They handle our most precious commodity and The CIT is looking to inspire, build up, a very positive approach!

The purpose of the breakfast this morning was to spread the word about the work and recruit individuals to participate in a spring fund raising event. The organization welcomes involvement by the community in the form of financial and volunteer contributions.

What was fun for us, besides having Derrick spend the night so he could be here in time (Derrick is not an early bird)... was the chance to envision our luxury hotel breakfast and actually put it together. We have always kicked around the idea of owning a hotel, with luxury rooms, a killer breakfast and afternoon tea. This probably will never happen, but on this morning in support of teachers we had the chance to meet some interesting people and feed them Hotel 1508's Continental Breakfast:

Sesame, Poppy Seed and Sweet Cinnamon Breads served with Fig and Ginger Jam, Butter from Tickling Springs Creamery and local Kuhn Orchard Honey

Quinoa Granola served with a choice of Pequea Valley Yogurt, Tickling Springs Milk or a Housemade Cashew Almond Milk

Soft Boiled Whitmore Farm Eggs

Twin Springs Honeycrisp Apples

Equator Coffee
Herbal Tea
Fresh Squeezed Carrot Juice
Housemade Kombucha

Quinoa Granola Recipe

2 cups cooked quinoa
1 cup rolled oats
1/2 cup raw walnuts
3 tablespoons agave nectar
salt to taste
1/2 cup golden raisins

1.Preheat oven to 250 degrees. Combine all ingredients except for the golden raisins. Put granola on a sheet tray and cook until dry, stirring about every 20 minutes.
2.The amount of time it takes for granola to dry depends on how wet the quinoa is but generally it will take 2-4 hours.
3.Remove dry granola from oven and mix in raisins. Store in an airtight container.

Timor Bodega


This morning we are having a breakfast at our home. I knew this meant we needed to find good local dairy. We do not use much dairy in our cooking and have great sources for the dairy we do use...Cheese, Cowgirl Creamery and Eggs, Whitmore Farms. But, breakfast begs for milk, cream, yogurt and butter. I knew there were a couple of places downtown that were selling great local products and I had been meaning to check them out for awhile. I called Timor Bodega which is in walking distance from our home. I had a quick talk with the owner who answered the phone and after he told me that he sold eggs from Polyface Farms and had just gotten 1/2 of a local angus cow delivered–I told him we would come right over. He told me he was happy to meet me but to call first because they did not open until 4:30.

We walked over and found Kim Wee and his Mother stocking a reach in refrigerator with a whole side of beef. We also found non-homogenized milk, skim milk, heavy cream and butter from Trickling Springs Creamery. We purchased Yogurt from Pequea Valley Farm. We did not need any beef but admired the cuts of beef that had just come in from Riders Backfield Farm. Mr. Wee gave us a liver, we look forward to cooking it, it is difficult to find local offal as many small operations can't process. His Mother warned us not to over cook the liver. John assured her that he was infamous for not over cooking meat...

In addition there was local produce, ecologically friendly cleaning products, Polyface Chickens, wines that came from the same place we get our wine, Potomac Selections....All in a corner store within walking distance from our home...this just makes sense!

Thursday Night


We still have a few spots available for Thursday October 8th’s Home Restaurant. The plan is to schedule a Thursday Home Restaurant every month. We have found that Thursday is a great night for people who are not in DC on the weekends and those with complicated weekend schedules.

The menu for Thursday is still evolving as we talk to farmers and gather ingredients over the next couple of days but we know it will include Honey Crisp Apples from Twin Springs Fruit Farm, Green Tomatoes from our garden here at 1508, Lamb Chops from Whitmore Farms, veal sweetbreads, diver sea scallops, turnips from our CSA Clagett Farm and with a little rain and some luck foraged wild mushrooms from Rock Creek Park…

The Home Restaurants are lots of fun. Each one has a unique personality. About half are for nights that we send out invites for, and accept reservations, and half are private parties where an individual or group chooses a date and reserves all the seats. On our last open night new connections were made and by the end of the evening all present were friends. The private dinners have been a mix of celebrations, nights out with friends and business. We already have a work holiday party booked for December.

This week we are doing our first breakfast meetings. We are looking forward to sharing some of our favorite morning foods including a quinoa granola and fig and ginger jam to go on warm sesame bread.

We also have our first lunch scheduled for early November. When we sent out our first Home Restaurant invitation we did not know exactly what to expect but it seems to be organically evolving and we welcome the diversity of events.

Home Restaurant #15

Tonight we celebrated a Birthday with longtime Rupperts guests. We reconnected with our friend Todd Ramlow who worked many years with us on 7th street and is now lending a hand here. Derrick made amazing Basil Gimlets as Martin-Lane lapped up the Restaurant stories and at one point answered a question with, "Let me consult my co-workers"–this cracked her up!

We still have a few spots open for October 8th–it is a Thursday and we would love to have you!
email me: sidraforman@gmail.com

Birthday Dinner Menu Below:

October 3, 2009

Passing
Eggplant Soup with Basil
Yellow Cauliflower Puree
Honeycrisp Apple Sauce with Rosemary
Seared Sea Scallop on Carrot with Carrot and Ginger Relish
Whitmore Farms Egg Omlette with Sorrel
Eight Ball Squash Marinated in Lemon with Summer Savory
(Labbe) Abymes Savoe 2007

Seated
Wood Grilled Wild Oyster Mushroom in Green Tomato Broth with Green Tomato Fondant, Sage and Walnut Oil
(Villa da Filicaja) Chianti Superiore 2006

Sweet Potato and Yukon Gold Potato Dumplings with Turnips and Turnip Greens
(Olivier Morin) Chitry BLANC 2008

Eco Friendly Farms Poussin Braised in Red Wine with Shallots, Fall Squash and Barley Gratin, Roasted Calaloo
(Khalkhal) MinervoisPlaisir des Lys” 2007

Fig Sorbet with White Chocolate Brownie
(Chancelle/Bourdin) Cremant de Saumur NV

Roasted Red Pear with Chocolate Cake, Chocolate Almond Pudding, Roasted Almonds and Cocoa Nibs

Dessert Bites:
Oatmeal Ginger
Coconut Macaroon
Quinoa Cookie with Chia and Apple

SME Kitchen Garden


Since August we have been spending lots of time on the front yard of Scott Montgomery Elementary School. This summer we were fortunate to be introduced to Frances the school librarian, Martin a neighbor who is very involved in the school, the principal who welcomed us and many inspiring teachers...one thing led to another and in August we planted a pumpkin patch in front of the school. Since then we have met lots of pre-schoolers who visit the garden daily, battled bermuda grass and enjoyed the most exciting garden project we have ever been involved in.

The pumpkins plants are growing and we hope to get some pumpkins before the first frost. More exciting though is watching young emerging gardeners get involved and take ownership of the planting. We hang out, dig, weed, water, eat local apples, look for worms and talk about how food grows and where foods come from. This winter when the weather is less hospitable we plan to cook with small groups of pre schoolers weekly.

Right after the garden was planted we started thinking...what's next. Frances suggested that we start applying for grants to build raised beds, one for each grade level. In addition we are also hoping for plant a bunch of fruit trees and build a community compost system.

This week John made preliminary drawings of the front yard as we envision it. We are thinking of names for the project...top of the list right now is, Kitchen Garden at Scott Montgomery Elementary. In the next couple of weeks we plant to start a SME Kitchen Garden Blog. Below are our working notes on the project:

1. Our goal is to continue the practice of Organic Gardening and Food Preparation with the preschoolers at Scott Montgomery Elementary.

2. Expand the practice to the rest of the school with a raised bed for each grade.

3. Build an outdoor classroom where students and teachers can meet for discussions and food preparation demonstrations.

Kitchen Garden (the physical space)

1. A welcoming mulched path that circles the flag pole an extends to the front of the pre-schoolers garden.
2. Nine 4x8 raised beds (288 cubic feet of soil needed) on top of mulch. One for each grade with three extra to create an interest in an after school program.
3. An Outdoor Classroom, which could at first be nothing more than a mulched oval with stepping stones.
4. Plant an assortment of perennial herbs in the existing raised bed.
5. Plant 5 Butterfly Bush behind existing pumpkins.
6. Plant 6 fruit trees on the 5th street side of SME.
7.10 Daisy plant underneath Kipps sign and 2 fall Clematis climbing up each leg of sign.
8. 100 Daffodil Bulbs for around each large tree.
9. Create living fences by growing on chain link fences: Honey Suckle, Morning Glories, Creeping Fig or maybe just Ivy?
10. Compost center on the east side of SME.

Kitchen Garden (the social space)

An Organic Kitchen Garden brings children closer to the soil, closer to where food comes from. By creating a place where the connections between health, food and the environment are made, children develop an appreciation for their immediate environment and the ramifications of choices.

An Organic Kitchen Garden introduces the preparation of Organic Food and heightens a sense of authorship as well as commitment.

An Organic Kitchen Garden is a practice where theoretical lessons (math, science, sociology and physical education) can be applied.

An Organic Kitchen Garden presents the oppurtunity to drop the boundry between community and school by developing a compost center as well as inviting participation.

If anyone want to get involved contact me.