Busy Flower Season, Martin-Lane's Point of View

It has been a wonderfully busy flower season so far.  My only regret is that we have had to pass on the opportunity to do a few Home Restaurants because the house has literally been full of flowers! Martin-Lane picked up a camera when she arrived home from school one day last week to document what was going on. We do plan to host some Home Restaurants during the month of July when flower events slow down for a minute and all the wonderful food offerings of summer are plentiful!

Photos Martin-Lane Cochran

48 Hour Bread

(photo of bread after step #6)

Over the last couple of decades I have made lots of bread.  I have my go to bread that is not a recipe but more of a method and a base that I use for a great variety of breads– rosemary walnut buns, spelt foccacia, salty baguette...

Over the years I have experimented with different recipes, flours, starters, methods...

Recently I have been trying some new methods– One of these is a slow rising bread I have been working on for the last couple of months.

48 Hour Bread

1 cup whole wheat flour

2 cups all purpose unbleached flour

2 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon fresh compressed yeast

1 ½ cup water at room temperature

1.Dissolve yeast in water in a large bowl.

2.Add additional ingredients and mix until incorporated.

3.Cover with plastic and let sit in a warm spot for 48 hours.  If you want to pinch a small piece of bread and keep it in reserve to incorporate into your next batch of dough (the more times you do this the more flavor and complexity your bread will have).

4.Lay a dish towel out on a flat surface and dust generously with flour.

5.Dump dough onto the towel and make into 10 inch square.

6.Fold square into thirds, dust top with flour, cover and let rest for 15 minutes.

7.Fold in thirds using short end.

8.Brush off excess flour and gently stretch top layer over the seams visible on 2 sides of the dough.

9.Cover ½ of a clean dish towel generously with flour and top with several tablespoons of wheat bran.

10.Place bread on part of towel covered with flour and sprinkle top with more flour and bran.

11.Cover with the remaining half of the towel and let rise for 2 hours.

12.After 1 hour of rising place a 2 quart casserole (I use a Le Cruset, enamel covered cast iron pan) with a cover in a 500 degree oven.

13.After an hour remove cover, place dough in the casserole and cover and bake for 30 minutes, uncover and bake an additional 20 minutes.

14.Remove bread from the casserole and let cool for at least for 15 minutes before slicing.

Vegan Cinnamon Buns

On the way home from school on Monday Martin-Lane announced that after she finished her homework she needed to make some cinnamon buns.  Always up for a good baking project I said I would assist.  Cinnamon Buns are not in my usual repertoire, to make or eat!  I put together a plan by piecing a few different recipes together and then substituting non-dairy for dairy items, fresh compressed yeast for dry yeast, vanilla bean for vanilla extract, incorporating out favorite Cinnamon from Le Sanctuaire ...

We were very thrilled with the results, but consume with care– these are a dessert, not a breakfast food.

Cinnamon Buns

Makes 12-14 buns

DOUGH

1 tablespoon fresh compressed yeast

1 cup warm almond milk

1/2 cup sugar

5 tablespoons melted non-hydrogenated margarine such as Earth Balance

1 teaspoon sea salt

½ cup pureed silken tofu

3 cups all purpose unbleached flour

1 cup whole wheat flour

FILLING

1 cup packed brown sugar

2 1/2 tablespoons cinnamon

5 tablespoons , melted non-hydrogenated margarine such as Earth Balance

ICING

8 tablespoons softened non-hydrogenated margarine such as Earth Balance

1 1/2 cups 10x sugar

1/4 cup tofu cream cheese

seeds from the inside of 1 vanilla bean

1/8 teaspoon salt

1.Dissolve the yeast in the warm milk in a large bowl.

2.Add sugar, margarine salt, tofu, and flours, mix well.

3.Knead the dough for a few minutes and make into a large ball.  Add a little flour if necessary to keep dough from sticking to your hands.

4.Put dough in a bowl, cover and let rise in a warm place for 1 hour or until the dough has doubled in size.

5.While dough is rising make filling by mixing brown sugar and cinnamon together in a bowl.

6.Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

7.Roll the dough out on a lightly floured surface, until it is 21 inches long by 16 inches wide and about ¼ inch thick.

8.Brush Smart Balance onto dough and sprinkle the brown sugar and cinnamon evenly over the surface.

9.Carefully roll dough from the long edge.

10.Cut the dough into 1 3/4 inch slices, and place in a lightly greased baking pan.

11.Bake for 15 minutes or until light golden brown.

12.While the rolls are baking combine the icing ingredients.

13.Beat well with an electric mixer until fluffy.

14.As soon as you remove the buns from the oven spread generously with icing.

(Grosjean Freres) Torette Valle d’Aoste 2007, Grape– Petite Rouge

Tom the importer who helps us pair wines with each Home Restaurant menu recommended this Torette, a DOC (DOC is an Italian classification like AOC is in France) to serve with Home Cured Bresaola at our dinner last weekend.  I was completely unaware of this wine and of the region– after tasting I needed to know more.

Torette comes from is a tiny area in northwest Italy bordering France and Switzerland.  Petite Rouge the grape used to make this wine is one of a few varietals unique to this region.  I found a reference that described this wine as– delicate and harmonious with juicy red and dark fruit characteristics...

Freres Grosjean the producer runs a small family vineyard.  Tom told me they are producing other unique and delicious wines– I look forward to tasting more.

Early April Wedding, Peonies, Tulips, Anemone, Sweet Pea, Stock...

I just got these beautiful detail photos by Kristen Hudson-Nichols from an early April wedding, thank you.   The celebration took place at the St Regis and the laid-back couples only request was to use early spring flowers and color.  Theses were the first peonies of the season which I paired with early spring flowers which are now gone until next year...Anemones and tulips already seem like distant memories, peonies are at their peak and I am already thinking about not too far in the distant dahlias!

Sauternes, Olive Oil, Pistachio Torte with Frozen Black Truffle and Local Strawberries

Oregon black truffle season is coming to a close, local strawberries are plentiful, the cross roads of these two seasons made me think about this combination.  It seemed to be a good end to a spring Home Restaurant meal. I will come back to this combination during the month of May in years to come.

Sauternes, Olive Oil, Pistachio Torte

1 cup all-purpose flour

1 cup whole wheat flour

1 cup finely pureed pistachio

1 tablespoon baking powder

2 teaspoon salt

1 1/4 cup pureed silken tofu

1 1/2 cup granulated sugar

1 cup plus 2 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 cup sauternes

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spray individual silicone cake molds.

In a medium bowl, thoroughly combine the flour, pistachios, baking powder and salt to thoroughly combine them and set aside.

Place the tofu in the bowl of a mixer and add the sugar.  Mix until thoroughly combined. Add the olive oil and mix until light in color and slightly thick, about 45 seconds. Add the sauternes and mix until thoroughly combined.

Add the dry ingredients to the bowl and mix until thoroughly combined and smooth.

Pour the batter into the prepared molds, and bake the cake for about 15 to  minutes until cake tests clean and begins to pull away from the sides of the mold.

Frozen Black Truffle

1 cup young coconut water

1 cup young coconut meat

3 cups coconut milk

1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons coconut butter

1 cup agave nectar

2 ounces black truffle (I used Oregon but could use French)

1 teaspoon himalyan salt

Combine all the ingredients in a high speed blender.  Let mixture sit in refrigerator for 24 hours to give the flavors a chance to meld.

Chill and freeze in an ice cream maker.

Candied Pistachio

1 cup chopped pistachio

2 tablespoons agave nectar

1/2 teaspoon himalyan salt

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.  Place pistachios, agave nectar and salt on a baking tray and stir.  Place in oven and stir every few minutes until the mixture become a deep golden brown.  Remove from the oven and stir every few minutes while the nuts are cooling to prevent them from sticking to the baking tray.

To Assemble

Top torte with a scoop of frozen black truffle, candied pistachios and a generous amount of sliced strawberries.

City Roses

I am always amazed this time of year by how many roses I see in the city.  I am less intrigued by the ones in well kept yards than by the tenacious ones that are growing in empty lots and on properties that have been abandoned for years.  This seems to be a particularily good year for abundant fat blooms– maybe because of the regular rain and the alternateing cool and hot days.

In my own garden we have six thriving climbing roses that we planted about 13 years ago.  Once half of them had to be temporarily transplanted into pots when the wall they were growing on got knocked down by a truck– when replanted they continued to grow un-phased.  I can see the blooms from my kitchen and I pick buckets of them every year...I must admit that I did not intentionally plant pink roses.  The variety we chose was Madame Alfred Carriere and we were under the impression that they would be a creamy white.  Even though I am not generally drawn to pink the plethora of gorgeous roses these vines produce every year are impossible not to love.

Family 21st Birthday Celebration

Photo by Kate Headley

Last night I was honored to host of a multi-generational 21st birthday celebration here at 1508.  Fabulous guests and spirited conversation seemed to pair well with bountiful early summer ingredients and wonderful wines picked by Tom.

Friday the 13th of May, 2011

Passing

Pork Tongue with Kimchi and Corncake

Softshell Crab with Lemon and Curly Parsley

Quail Egg with Sorrel

Fennel with Caper, New Olives and Golden Raisin

Ramp Broth with Shiitake Mushroom

Chicken Liver with Lemon, Garlic and Dry Cured Pork

Lemon Verbena Vodka Martini

Chateau de Eperonniere, Rose de Loire 2009

Seated

Bresaola with Girasol, French Breakfast Radish, Grainy Mustard, Mustard Sprouts and Asparagus- 48 hour farm bread

(Grosjean Freres) Torette Valle d'Aoste 2007

Butter Lettuce with Fava Bean, Leeks, Morel, Fiddlehead FernsLeeks Greens- herb foccacia

(Gerard Boulay) Sancerre, "Clos de Beaujeu" 2008

Quail, Duck and Chicken Fricasse with Peas, Carrots Potatoes and Chard- oatmeal bun

(Chateau de Vaux) Pinot Noir, "Les Hautes Bassieres" 2009

Oma Cheese

Banana Rhubarb Crumble with Frozen Strawberry Fermented Grains and Caramel Sauce

(Tissot) Cremant du Jura Brut NV

Bites: Mini Chocolate Cake with Fresh Mint Glaze, Chocolate and Vanilla Shortbreads

Take Away: Coconut Macaroons and Warm Sesame Bread

Friday Bridesmaid Lunch and Saturday Wedding Flowers, Late April

Photo Kate Headley I had a great weekend preparing food and flowers for Andrea who got married at the Decatur House yesterday.  I met Andrea quite recently as she was working outside of the country and just returned several weeks in advance of her wedding.

I was contacted a few weeks ago by a family friend of the brides who wanted to plan a "Bridesmaid" (there were no bridesmaids in the wedding) Home Restaurant Lunch.  Late April is full of some of my favorite ingredients, many of which are only available for a moment– helleborus, fava beans, viburnum, fiddlehead ferns, morels...

I will post flower photos when I get them in a few weeks, in the meantime here is the menu from Fridays lunch.  Friday was chilly and damp, lunch was served in front of the fireplace.  For the wedding however on Saturday the sun was out and the temperature was in the 70's...

Passing

Wild Rockfish Cake with Grainy Mustard

Chicken with Tarragon on Sweet Potato

Fennel, Caper, Golden Raisin and Lucques Olives on Endive

Scrambled Egg with Sorrel

Girasol Soup

Roasted Beet, Stem and Green with Pickled Beet

(Moutard) Brut Grand Cuvee NV

Seated

Blond Morels with Fava Beans and Fiddlehead Ferns on Arugula dressed with Chive Banyuls Vinaigrette, Whole Wheat Farm Bread

(Domaine de la Feuillarde) Saint-Veran V.V. 2008

Lamb Shoulder and Lamb Suasage with English Peas, Pea Shoots, Carrots, Leeks, Tiny Potatoes with Herb Leek Broth, Spelt Foccacia

(Domaine des Hauts Chassis) Crozes Hermitage, Les Chassis 2007

Winnimere Cheese on Walnut Cracker

Banana Cake Frozen Coconut Sandwich with Champagne Mango and Candied Macadamia Nuts

(Moutard) Brut Grand Cuvee NV

Chocolate and Vanilla Shortbread

Take Home: Salty Rosemary Walnut Biscotti

Shortbread– no dairy

This recipe is adapted from a recipe John has had for decades that he learned from Shaun Hill at Gidleigh Park in Devon, UK.  I removed the butter and replaced it with Earth Balance, a non-hydrogenated margarine, and added a little vanilla.  These melt in your mouth cookies are great with a cup of tea or paired with any frozen dessert or fruit compote. No Dairy Shortbread

24 ounces Earth Balance, non hydrogenated margarine

2 cups Confectioners Sugar

2 cups Organic Corn Starch

3 cups All Purpose Unbleached Flour (for a slightly grainy taste you could substitute 1 cup for whole wheat flour)

Seeds from the inside of 2  vanilla beans

Combine shortening and sugar and beat until thoroughly combined. Add corn starch, flour and vanilla and beat until thoroughly combined.  Refrigerate for at least 1 hour before rolling.  Roll to 1/8 inch thickness and cut with pastry cutter or score with a knife so you can break into individual cookies after baking.  Prick cookies with a fork and bake in a 350 degree oven until the cookies just turn a light golden color, do not over bake.

Planting Lilac in the City

Plants in my garden are carefully chosen.  I do not have any extra space for plants that do not produce lots of food or flowers that I can cut.  Lilac does not fit my usual plant profile– it needs a fair amount of space, produces a few flowers very briefly once a season, does not look very good when it is not in bloom and needs to be pruned before July 4th in this area if you want it to produce flowers the following year. Regardless I have a Madame Lemoine lilac bush, tucked in a back corner near where extra pots and tools are stored.  It is essential because it's short lived blooms bring me so much pleasure.  The warm weather yesterday resulted in an explosion of full, sweet smelling white blooms.

.......

A country dance was being held in a garden I felt a bump and heard an "Oh, beg your pardon" Suddenly I saw polka dots and moonbeams All around a pug-nosed dream

The music started and was I the perplexed one I held my breath and said "May I have the next one?" In my frightened arms, polka dots and moonbeams Sparkled on a pug-nosed dream

There were questions in the eyes of other dancers As we floated over the floor There were questions but my heart knew all the answers And perhaps a few things more

Now in a cottage built of lilacs and laughter I know the meaning of the words "Ever after" And I'll always see polka dots and moonbeams When I kiss the pug-nosed dream

Polka Dots and Moonbeams by Jimmy Van Heusen and Johny Burke (a favorite version is by Cassandra Wilson also enjoy the one by Sarah Vaughan and another by Ella Fitzgerald)

Almond Torte with Celery Almond Sorbet, Candied Almond and Celery Seed and Sugared Celery

Talking about spring ingredients a couple weeks ago led to the idea for this dessert which is a new favorite and certain to be returned to in springs to come. Almond Torte, Celery Almond Sorbet, Candied Almond with Celery Seeds and Sugared Celery

Almond Torte

3/4 cups sugar

4 oz almonds

1 1/2 teaspoons honey

4 oz earth balance

seeds from the inside of one vanilla bean

3/4 cup pureed silken tofu

1/2 cup flour

3/4 teaspoon baking powder

preheat oven to 350 degrees

In a food processor combine sugar, almond and honey.  Process for 2 full minutes.  Put aside.

In a mixer cream earth balance and add almond sugar mixture, process until combined.  Add vanilla bean, pureed tofu, flour and baking powder and mix until just combined.

Bake in individual cupcake molds or any shape individual silicone molds.  Cook until cakes test clean, about 20 minutes.

Celery Almond Sorbet

2 cups almonds

2 cup water

4 cups chopped celery

honey to taste, approximately 6 tablespoons

pinch sea salt

Pour boiling water over almonds and let them sit for at least half an hour.  Combine all ingredients in a high speed mixer.  Adjust honey to taste.  Strain through a fine strainer pushing out as much liquid as possible.  Discard the solid and freeze the liquid in an ice cream maker.

Candied Almond and Celery Seed

1 cup almonds

2 teaspoons celery seeds

2 tablespoons honey

large pinch of sea salt

large pinch of sugar

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Combine all  ingredients on a baking sheet and place in oven.  Cook until golden brown, about 10 minutes.

Sugared Celery

2 stalks celery

2 tablespoons sugar

Thinly slice celery and toss in sugar

To Assemble Dessert

Top torte with a scoop of sorbet, a small handful of almonds and a pinch of sugared celery.

......

note: I made a big batch of this for a couple Home Restaurants and then reduced the portions for this blog post.  I am not certain that the there is the perfect ratio of cake, sorbet and garnish– no worries, any left overs can be enjoyed on their own!

Twice used wedding flowers!

Photo Abby Greenawalt

Several months ago I met with a bride who was getting married in the evening on April 9, 2011 at Woodend.  She was interested in lush flowers with with lots of textures in white, ivory, green and touches of soft pink.  A couple weeks after we met I got an email from a bride who was getting married the same day at Woodend in the morning.  She explained that she had talked to the evening bride, they seemed to have similar taste, and wanted to know if I would be willing to meet with them together and figure out if they could share the majority of the flowers for their weddings.  I loved the idea!  I am always concerned about waste with wedding flowers.  Often I provide parchment paper and twine for guests to take flowers home in, I always offer to lend vases free of cost so they can be reused for another event and regularly I facilitate flower donations after weddings.

The idea of two weddings on the same day at the same venue with the same flowers makes sense.  Since they were sharing the costs we were able to do slightly larger centerpieces to achieve the very lush look both brides were looking for without excessive expense.  We figured out that ceremony pieces, guest book flowers and centerpieces would all be shared.  Each wedding party had their own personal flowers and their own flowers tied to chairs going down the aisle.  One bride added an arrangement for the place cards the other added small arrangements for cocktail tables.  Yesterday the weather was cool and damp and the flowers looked just as fresh in the evening as they did in the morning.  I arrived at Woodend ready to refresh the centerpieces between the two weddings but they needed nothing except to be placed on fresh tablecloths.

After the second wedding we delivered all of the flowers to a senior home in my neighborhood so they could get one more use!

Merci the store

On our recent trip to Paris we discovered a new favorite, a store called Merci– a seemingly casually and clearly perfectly curated and designed space that includes– dining, men and women's clothing, a used book store, art, sculpture, a home section, art supplies, bedding and kitchen supplies.

Not only was it possibly my favorite store I have ever been to but all money made beyond operating costs is donated to charity– the following is from their website.

..................

THAT THANK YOU, THANK YOU WHAT?

"I have what I gave 'Jean Giono

Thank you ...

IS AN IDEA in response to a question: How TO How to be FIXED? How to generate funds in a sustainable manner without calling for donations or charity?

IS THE IDEA that one can give his expertise, his time, talent, energy ... by creating success. This was done by the founders, Marie-France and Bernard Cohen, after selling Bonpoint imagining AN EXCEPTIONAL run as a commercial classical and effective and not as a charity store.

That's what some DESIGNERS by producing a special model for Thank you and agreeing to give up their margins. These products are identified by the small gold medal.

That's what the founders being totally volunteer and donating the profits of that business to an endowment they have created to HELP the poor children of the poorest, especially in Madagascar.

This is what the providers PARTICIPATING Thanks, if they wish, to the endowment fund.

We look forward to you reporting the results of this first year. You are SUCCESSFUL thank you! Without you nothing is possible. Thank you.